
Plaza Mayor
I just got back from a wonderful two day visit to one of my favourite cities,Madrid. This vibrant capital is an eclectic mix of different cultures and identities , which creates a perfect ambience for the tourist. My Early Ryanair flight from Dublin arrived in Madrid at 9.45 am local time and taking advantage of the highly efficient Metro train system, I was comfortably installed in my hotel in the upmarket Salamanca area by mid morning. Now all I had to do, as I sipped my first cafe con leche, was to plan out my tapas route for the rest of the day.
I first headed to Puerta del Sol and made my way to Calle Cuchilleros to check out Ernest Hemingway’s favourite restaurant in Madrid, Sobrino de Botin, which incredibly dates back to 1725. Having always been fascinated by Hemingway’s writings on Spain, I was keen to include some of his regular haunts in my tapas trail. Botin is not a tapas bar, but a proper restaurant and when I enquired about a table later in the day, I was given the earliest option as 10.30 pm. Not wishing to miss the opportunity to sample the cochinillo ( suckling pig ) for which Botin is famous, I made the reservation.

Puerta del Sol

Sobrino de Botin

Restaurante Sobrino de Botin
Now it was time for some midday tapas and I made my way to Casa del Abuelo, where I tasted some delicious gambas gabardina ( prawns with overcoats ). This popular place with outdoor seating also specialises in gambas al ajillo ( garlic prawns ) which is a favourite lunchtime treat, washed down with a glass of Mahou beer or perhaps a chilled white wine from Albarino. The best part of the tapas experience is going from one bar to another and sampling small dishes in each. With this in mind, I moved on to Cerveceria Alemana, in Plaza de Santa Ana. This is another of Hemingway’s favourite watering holes and it retains all its old world charm. Here I sampled a dish of albondigas ( meat balls ) and ensaladilla rusa ( russian salad ). Still feeling slightly hungry, I made my way to Mercado de San Miguel, which is an amazing indoor food hall, where you can sample almost every kind of Spanish food dish such as croquetas de jamon iberico ( Iberian ham croquettes ), pulpo a la gallega ( Galician octopus ), boquerones en vinagre ( anchovies in vinaigrette ), and empanadas de atun ( tuna pasties ).

Cerveceria Alemana

Casa del Abuelo

Gambas Gabardina in Casa del Abuelo

Albondigas in Cerveceria Alemana
Finally with my hunger and thirst well satisfied, it was time to return to the hotel for a well earned siesta before setting out again in the evening . As my dinner reservation was not until 10.30, there was ample time to sample several more establishments, the first of which was Casa Toni on Calle de la Cruz. This simple but hugely popular tapas bar features the owner in full view at a flat grill preparing a variety of unusual dishes such as mollejas de cordero ( lamb sweetbreads ), setas a la plancha ( grilled wild mushrooms ) along with popular staples like papas bravas ( spicy fried potatoes ). Feeling adventurous, I ordered a plate of orejas a la plancha ( grilled pig’s ear ), which although quite fatty, was still delicious. I then took the short stroll to Calle Echegaray to visit yet another of Hemingway’s haunts, La Venenciana. This famous bar, which appears to have stood still in time and is full of Civil War history and memorabilia, only serves Wine or Sherry and cheese or cured meat tapas. A chilled glass of Manzanilla accompanied by a tapa of salchichon iberico (Iberian cured sausage ) was the perfect aperitif to prepare me for the final leg of today’s journey , dinner at Botin.

Orejas a la plancha

Casa Toni
At 10.30 in the evening, Botin was completely full with diners and the atmosphere was excellent. White coated waiters were most attentive and friendly and having over indulged all day on Tapas, I decided to to go straight to the main course, which had to be cochinillo asado ( roast suckling pig ). I ordered a half bottle of Muga, a smooth Rioja, and settled down to await my meal. When it arrived, I was certainly not disappointed. The juicy young meat just fell off the bone and the crackling was exquisite. As I looked around the restaurant, it appeared that a large number of the customers were having the same dish.

Cochinillo Asado in Sobrino del Botin
As the ever efficient Metro brought me back to my hotel on Calle Goya, I marvelled at how many food and drink places you could visit in one day in this incredible city. But tomorrow was another day and I need to restore my energy for another marathon. My plans included visiting several tapas bars in the Salamanca area and then returning to the streets around Plaza Mayor , where I was seeking the perfect arroz negro ( rice in squid ink ). Hopefully it would live up to the standards of the first day.

Arroz negro
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